How to shrink pores: what really works and what is a myth

Pore size is mostly set by genetics, and pores have no muscles, so they cannot open or close. What you can change is how noticeable they look.

Quick answer: You cannot permanently shrink pores, but you can make them look smaller. Use gentle cleansing, a salicylic acid (BHA) product to keep pores clear, a retinoid at night if your skin tolerates it, and sunscreen every day. Expect a gradual change over several weeks to a few months. Hot or cold water, pore strips and "pore-closing" toners change how pores look only briefly, if at all.

What are pores, and why can't they close?

Pores are the tiny openings of your hair follicles. Each one is also the exit for an oil gland, which sends out sebum, the natural oil that keeps skin soft. There is no muscle around a pore, so warm water cannot "open" it and cold water cannot "close" it. Temperature may change how the skin feels for a few minutes, but the pore stays the same size.

Why do pores look big?

Several things can make pores more visible:

1. Oil. More sebum is linked to more visible pores, which is why oily skin often shows them most.
2. Clogging. Plugs of oil and dead skin cells stretch the opening and look darker, as in blackheads.
3. Less firmness. Sun damage and aging weaken the collagen and elastin around pores, so the edges can look looser and the pore more oval.
4. Genetics. DermNet notes that pores can be larger in some people and tend to look bigger with age.
5. Hormones. Pores may look a little different across the menstrual cycle, and DermNet says they can peak around ovulation.
6. Irritation. The American Academy of Dermatology lists scrubbing, picking and very hot water as things that can make pores look worse.

If your pores are mostly a problem alongside oil, see oily skin. If they come with blackheads, see blackheads and visible pores.

What actually helps?

Be honest with yourself about the goal. DermNet states that treatments focused on shrinking large pores are not very effective, so the aim is smoother-looking skin, not tiny pores.

Cleansing

Wash twice a day, and after you sweat, with warm (not hot) water and a gentle cleanser. Over-washing and scrubbing can irritate skin, and irritated skin can make pores look more obvious. Browse cleansers that are gentle and non-comedogenic.

Salicylic acid

Salicylic acid is oil-soluble, so it can reach inside pores. It is often found in cleansers and leave-on products. If it dries your skin, use it a few days a week or alternate it with a mild cleanser.

Retinoids

Retinoids are vitamin A–related ingredients. They are used at night, can cause dryness and peeling at first, and can make skin more sensitive, so use sunscreen every day. Start two or three nights a week. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, ask your doctor before using a retinoid.

Sunscreen

Sun damage weakens the support around pores. Use a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher every day, as the American Academy of Dermatology advises.

Treatments from a professional

If products are not enough, a dermatologist can discuss in-office options. These include chemical peels, microneedling (tiny needles that make small controlled injuries to prompt skin renewal), laser treatments and radiofrequency microneedling. They are usually done as a series of sessions, often weeks apart, and the results vary by person. Cost, downtime and risks depend on the method and the skin tone, so choose a qualified, experienced professional. Deeper skin tones can be more prone to dark marks after some procedures, so ask about this before you book. At-home microneedling rollers use much shorter needles than professional devices, and results are less certain.

Common pore myths

• "Hot water opens pores and cold water closes them." Pores do not open or close. Hot water can irritate skin.
• "Pore strips shrink pores." They pull out some of the plug at the top, but pores refill within days.
• "Toners close pores." Some astringent toners make skin feel tighter for a short time, but they do not change pore size, and alcohol-heavy ones can irritate.
• "Ice rollers shrink pores." Any tightening lasts only a few minutes.
• "Squeezing or extractor tools clean pores." They can cause scarring and inflammation, which makes pores look worse.
• "Red light shrinks pores." This has not been proven.

A simple routine

Morning

1. Gentle, non-comedogenic cleanser.
2. Niacinamide serum or moisturizer with it, if your skin likes it.
3. Sunscreen.

Evening

1. Cleanser, and remove makeup well.
2. Salicylic acid on some nights, or a retinoid on others (not both on the same night at first).
3. A light moisturizer.

Use a clay mask once a week at most if you like how it feels. It may absorb oil for a few hours, but it will not change pore size.

Makeup tricks

Makeup cannot change pores, but it can soften how they look. A silicone-based primer can fill the surface, because silicones form a smooth film. Apply foundation in thin layers by patting rather than rubbing, and use a little powder only where you get shiny. Always remove makeup at night.

How long until you see results?

Salicylic acid can make skin feel smoother within a few weeks. Retinoids and niacinamide usually need several weeks to a few months. Professional treatments are typically a series of sessions. If you see no change after a few months of steady use, a dermatologist can help.

When to see a dermatologist

• Pores come with frequent breakouts, painful bumps or scarring. See acne-prone skin.
• Your skin becomes red, sore or peels badly after starting a retinoid or acid.
• You want to try peels, microneedling, lasers or a prescription retinoid.
• Exfoliating makes your skin uncomfortable, or you are unsure whether it is right for you.

FAQ

Can pores be removed completely?

No. Pores are needed to release oil and sweat. They can look much smaller with the right care.

Do pores get bigger with age?

They can look bigger as skin loses firmness, especially with sun damage. Sunscreen and retinoids help limit this.

Does diet affect pore size?

Not directly. Pore size is mostly genetic, and oil production is influenced by hormones and genes.

Is it okay to squeeze blackheads?

It is best not to. Squeezing can cause irritation and scarring. Gentle salicylic acid or a retinoid is a safer approach.

Sources

• What can treat large facial pores? (American Academy of Dermatology)
• Enlarged pores (DermNet)
• 7 Dermatologist Approved Tips to Shrink Your Pores (Cleveland Clinic)
• Dermatologist-approved pregnancy skin care (American Academy of Dermatology)