How to get rid of blackheads (and why pore strips never fix them)
How to get rid of blackheads: why they form, how to tell them from sebaceous filaments, the ingredients that clear them, and habits that bring them back.
Written by the Glowpedia team · not yet reviewed by our dermatologist
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Blackheads are not dirt, and you cannot scrub them away. They are small plugs of oil and dead skin cells inside a pore, and they come back unless you change what happens inside that pore. The good news: the right ingredients, used steadily, can make a real difference.
Quick answer: Use a leave-on salicylic acid (BHA) product most days and a retinoid, such as over-the-counter adapalene, a few nights a week, building up slowly. Add a clay mask once a week if you like. Expect a clear difference in about 6–12 weeks. Pore strips and squeezing only empty the top of the pore for a few days, and the dots on your nose may be normal sebaceous filaments.
What is a blackhead?
A blackhead is a type of acne called an open comedone. It forms when a pore (the opening of a hair follicle) becomes partly blocked with oil (sebum) and dead skin cells. Because the top of the pore stays open, the plug is exposed to air. The oil and skin pigment in the plug darken, which is why it looks black. It is not dirt.
Whiteheads are the closed version: the same plug, but covered by a thin layer of skin, so it stays white or skin-colored.
Blackheads are most common on the nose, chin and forehead, but they can also appear on the cheeks, neck, chest and back.
Blackhead or sebaceous filament?
Many people try to "fix" dots on the nose that are not blackheads at all. Sebaceous filaments are thin, normal structures that line the oil glands and help oil move to the surface. Everyone has them.
| Blackhead | Sebaceous filament | |
|---|---|---|
| Look | Raised, dark dot, sometimes slightly bumpy | Flat grey, beige or yellowish dots, evenly spread |
| Where | Nose, chin, forehead, sometimes cheeks, back and chest | Mostly the nose and nearby cheeks |
| What it is | A real clog (a type of acne) | A normal part of healthy skin |
| After squeezing | Comes out as a firm plug; returns in weeks | Thin, pale threads; refill within days |
| Goal | Clear and prevent | Make less visible, not remove |
If the dots on your nose look like a neat grid of tiny grey points, they are probably filaments. Treatment can make them smaller and lighter, but not gone. See blackheads and visible pores for more on pores.
Why do blackheads form?
Several things make clogs more likely:
- Extra oil, often driven by hormones, puberty, or oily skin.
- Sticky dead skin cells that do not shed normally inside the pore.
- Heavy, oily products on the face, or hair oils and pomades that touch the forehead.
- Friction and pressure, from phones, helmets, masks or resting your chin on your hand.
- Skipping makeup and sunscreen removal at night.
Why pore strips never fix them
Pore strips stick to the top of the plug and pull it out. That can feel satisfying, but:
- They only remove the top part, and the pore refills within days or weeks.
- They do nothing to stop new clogs from forming.
- They can also pull out sebaceous filaments, which may leave skin drier and irritated.
- On sensitive skin, they can cause redness and irritation.
Occasional use is unlikely to cause harm for most people, but strips are a quick cosmetic trick, not a treatment.
What works
Salicylic acid (BHA)
Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid that dissolves in oil. That means it can work its way into the pore and loosen the plug. Leave-on products such as toners, liquids, serums or gels usually work better than washes, which rinse off quickly. Start every other day and build up to daily if your skin is comfortable.
Retinoids
Retinoids help skin cells shed normally, so pores are less likely to clog in the first place. Adapalene gel is sold without a prescription in the US and is one of the best long-term options for blackheads and whiteheads. Retinol is a gentler cosmetic option. Prescription tretinoin is stronger.
Retinoids can make skin more sensitive, so use sunscreen every day. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, ask your doctor before using a retinoid.
Clay masks
Masks with clays such as kaolin or bentonite absorb surface oil. They can help skin look less shiny for a while. Once a week is plenty. They are a helper, not a treatment on their own.
Niacinamide
Niacinamide is used in cosmetics to help with the look of oil and enlarged pores. It is gentle and pairs well with most routines.
Oil cleansing
Cleansing oils and balms can dissolve sunscreen and makeup and may soften plugs. Choose ones labeled non-comedogenic and rinse well. Follow with a gentle water-based cleanser if your skin is oily.
Professional extraction
A dermatologist or trained professional can remove stubborn blackheads with sterile tools. They may also offer chemical peels or microdermabrasion. This is safer than squeezing at home.
A simple routine for blackheads
Morning
- Gentle gel or foaming cleanser.
- Niacinamide serum (optional).
- Light, oil-free moisturizer.
- Sunscreen, SPF 30 or higher.
Evening
- Cleanser (double cleanse if you wore sunscreen or makeup).
- Salicylic acid on the T-zone (forehead, nose and chin), most nights.
- On two or three other nights, use adapalene instead of salicylic acid, then build up slowly.
- Light moisturizer.
Weekly: a clay mask on oily areas, if you enjoy it.
What not to mix
- Salicylic acid and a retinoid on the same night, at the start. This often causes dryness and peeling. Alternate nights for the first month. See retinoids + exfoliating acids.
- Several acids plus scrubs. Over-exfoliating irritates skin and can make it look shinier and redder.
- Pore strips every day. They pull on the skin and do not prevent new clogs.
- Metal extractors or squeezing at home. These can bruise or scar the skin, cause infection, or push the plug deeper.
Blackheads on the nose, chin, ears and back
- Nose: the oiliest area of the face and where filaments are most visible. Be patient and gentle; harsh scrubbing makes the skin red and the dots look worse.
- Chin and jawline: often linked to hormones and touching your face. If you also get deeper, painful spots here, see a doctor.
- Ears: blackheads in the outer ear are common. Clean gently with a washcloth; do not dig with cotton buds or tools.
- Back and chest: a salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide body wash, left on for a minute before rinsing, can help. Change out of sweaty clothes soon after exercise.
Blackheads on darker skin
On brown and Black skin, squeezing or harsh treatment can leave dark marks that last longer than the blackhead itself. Start actives slowly, use sunscreen every day, and choose gentle exfoliation over scrubs. If you get dark marks after spots, products with azelaic acid or niacinamide may help with the look of uneven tone.
Habits that bring blackheads back
- Heavy, rich creams on an oily T-zone.
- Hair oils, pomades and edge products near the forehead and hairline.
- Sleeping in makeup or sunscreen.
- Touching or picking at your face.
- Stopping your routine as soon as skin looks clear.
How long until results?
Salicylic acid may make skin feel smoother within a few weeks, with fewer blackheads over 4–8 weeks. Retinoids usually take 8–12 weeks, and some people have a short flare first. Keep a maintenance routine going, because blackheads usually return if you stop completely.
When to see a dermatologist
- Blackheads come with many red, painful spots, deep lumps or scarring.
- Over-the-counter products have not helped after about 3 months.
- A single, larger blackhead keeps coming back in the same place. It may be a different kind of bump that a doctor can remove.
- Your skin becomes very red, sore or flaky from treatment.
A dermatologist can prescribe stronger retinoids and other acne treatments, and offer professional extraction or peels.
FAQ
Does steam open pores?
Pores do not have muscles, so they cannot open and close. Steam can soften the plug slightly, which is why professionals sometimes use it before extraction.
Are nose strips bad for you?
Occasional use is fine for most people, but they do not prevent new blackheads, and they can irritate sensitive skin.
Can makeup cause blackheads?
Heavy, oily formulas can. Look for products labeled non-comedogenic or oil-free, and remove makeup every night.
Can I get rid of blackheads permanently?
Not usually. You can clear them and keep new ones from forming with a steady routine, but pores will always make oil.
Do blackheads go away on their own?
Some slowly work their way out, but many stay for weeks. Salicylic acid and retinoids speed things up.
Sources
- Sebaceous Filaments: Difference From Blackheads & Treatment (Cleveland Clinic)
- Blackheads: What They Look Like, Treatment & Prevention (Cleveland Clinic)
- How to treat different types of acne (American Academy of Dermatology)
- Pimple popping: Why only a dermatologist should do it (American Academy of Dermatology)
- Enlarged pores (DermNet)
- Sebaceous Filaments (PubMed Central, NIH)